Tema: Throttle Body on a 200SX SE

Que ondas como estan todos por aca?? Oigan que es esta madre, fui y pregunte y me dijeron que era la valvula de aceleracion???si se llama asi?? Ahh y aqui les paso el articulo para que me den sus opiniones acerca de ello y ver si se la puedo instalar a mi nave, gracias!!!



Since an engine is essentially an air pump, opening up the passages for air to enter and exit the engine will result in a more efficient burn and more horsepower.


One of the places where power is held back is in the design of the throttle body. At 52mm (2 inches) in diameter, it's a large reduction in size from even the stock intake piping. For the smoothest flow possible, you want all your intake components to match in diameter.


In 1989, Nissan realized this when they released their new KA24E engine. Since the intake piping was 2.5" in diameter, they redesigned their throttle body to be 60mm in diameter to better even out the flow. Luckily for us, they kept the exact same bolt pattern and linkage design, so that it's a direct bolt on for any previous VG or CA engine.



Required tools:

Variety of screwdrivers
Pliers
1/4" Allen wrench
Hose-to-Hose connector
Throttle body cleaner

For early 240SX TB's: Cutting tool & rubber plugs

For later TB's: Two large vacuum caps
To begin with, find the throttle body plate actuator on the side of your throttle body. Grab the tab on the actuator and pull it backwards (towards the passenger side of the car) to give your throttle cables some slack. While holding the actuator back with one hand, remove the cable ends from the actuator with the other hand. They simply slide out through a hole in the side.

Next, remove the air intake pipe. This requires removal of a single bolt in the lower part of the pipe which holds it to the engine block, as well as a few band clamps holding the pipe onto the airbox and to the throttle body. There will be a lot of vacuum hoses attached to the back of the pipe which will need to be removed (remember to mark which hose goes where so they will be put back on correctly). This is a perfect time to check that they are all correctly hooked up and don't have cracks or breaks in them. If they do, replace them.

With the air tube out of the way, you want to remove the 4 large allen bolts holding the throttle body to the intake manifold. This is where you use your 1/4" Allen key. The bolts are quite long, so you will need to do a lot of unscrewing to get them all out. Now unplug the throttle position sensor, which is located on the back of the throttle body. Lastly, remove the two coolant lines which run to the throttle body. They should be held on by two small hose clamps. Keep a rag handy because coolant will pour out of these hoses.

With all four bolts out and the TPS disconnected, you should be able to pull your throttle body right off. Some may be sticky and require a soft tap from a mallet to loosen them. With this off, you can take your throttle body cleaner and clean out any oil and carbon deposits in the opening to the intake manifold.



The first step is to take your new KA24E throttle body and use the same throttle body cleaner to make sure it is sparking clean. Black crud on the back of the throttle plate destroys air flow and reduces throttle reponse. Next, remove the throttle position sensor which came on your KA24E throttle body and replace it with the throttle position sensor you removed from your stock throttle body.

For early 240SX Throttle Bodies: Your throttle body will have coolant lines sticking out of the top of the TB. These are designed to run hot coolant over the throttle body so that ice crystals don't form on the plate. Unless you live in the Yukon, there is absolutely no need for these tubes at all. Their only purpose is to reduce horsepower. Since these are sticking straight up out of the TB, you will have to just chop them off. Take a saw, dremel, or just a pair of pliers and rip those tubes right off. When you're left with two open holes, you may want to plug those with some rubber corks to prevent stuff from getting in.

For later Altima/240SX/etc Throttle Bodies: Your throttle body will have the two coolant lines on the bottom out of sight. You won't need to touch these at all, but you should put two large vacuum caps over the ends to prevent crud from collecting inside the tunnels.

While everything is out, take your hose-to-hose connector and connect the two coolant lines together. This will just route the boiling hot coolant back into the system without ever having to touch your nice cool throttle body.

Now it's finally time to attach the KA24E throttle body:



Loosely put in the 4 bolts to hold the throttle body to the intake. Pull back the throttle actuators and test fit your cables into these ends. If it's a little too short or a little too long, you can adjust your throttle cable length by adjusting the two lock nuts on the top of the intake manifold. If you get the cables in and they spring closed tight, consider yourself lucky. If you can't get the throttle to spring correctly, you will have to remove the KA24E throttle body, remove the nut on the end of the actuator rod, remove the springs inside, then move all your stock throttle body actuators and springs onto the KA24E throttle body. Keep retesting the cable settings and combinations of actuators until the throttle cables open the throttle body all the way and allow the plate to close all the way.

Tighten the four allen bolts, plug in the throttle position sensor on the back, and make sure the throttle cables are tight.



Reattach the vacuum hoses to your air intake pipe, and then reattach the pipe to the throttle body and to the airbox. Once you're sure everything is tight, sealed and where it is supposed to be, start up the car and test it out. If the idle is slightly high, adjust the little screw in the side of the throttle body with a flathead screwdriver until it comes down to a normal level. If it won't lower enough, your throttle cables are too tight and aren't allowing the throttle body to close all the way. Undo the locking nuts on top of the intake again and readjust until the idle comes down.

With this all in place, you should notice a lot more throttle response driving around town, as well as maybe 5 more horsepower on the top end with everything else stock. Once you start modifying further, the throttle body will allow more and more horsepower to be made vs. the stocker.


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